Pea Coat Perfection: Stylish Men's Outerwear for Winter
I say this because one of my WWII coats has an almost identical tag, and that is where it is located. That coat also has the standard tag on the inside breast pocket. WWII coat. It is possible that the peacoats also carried this type of tag at some point during the war.
The below photographs are of a Bridgecoat year unknown and a tag from a bridgecoat. A bridgecoat is a full length just below the knees double breasted overcoat worn by all naval officers and chiefs, E-7 through E Bridgecoats have a zip out lining to make them warmer when needed.
I have placed my original size 40 peacoat next to the bridgecoat in the photograph for comparison. While officers and chiefs are authorized to wear the bridgecoat, they may also wear a peacoat. The peacoat worn by an officer or chief has gold buttons and is called a reefer, instead of a peacoat. The only difference between a peacoat and a reefer is the gold buttons. The officers also wear shoulder boards indicating their rank. The chiefs wear no rank insignia. Bridgecoat Bridgecoat tag. Last edited: Feb 28, Jan 23, 2.
The number of buttons showing on the front of the coat changed from eight to six.Peacoat Guide - How To Buy & Pea Coat Style Tips
This change lengthened and widened the lapel, which allowed it to lie flat against the body of the coat. It made for a neater presentation while only allowing a slightly larger opening at the top of the chest. The dense smooth wool outer shell remained unchanged, with a few exceptions. In the 70s there was at least one contract for the Melton wool, which became the standard shell from to present. The color remained the deep midnight blue in these Melton contracts.
All of the pre peacoats I have seen that have Melton wool shells are labeled as such. Post WWII coat and earlier tag While the coats themselves remained unchanged for almost 35 years -there were numerous tags used during this period. It is this practice that makes dating these pieces of history accurate within a several year period. As the peacoats remained relatively unchanged until aboutthe remainder of the discussion will focus on the uniqueness of the tags to establish a date for the coats.
My coat has the nicest finish of any of my coats. It has the standard 6 button showing front with double stitching on the sleeves, about 3" up from the end of the cuff, and a single row of stitching right at the cuff.
I believe this tag was used up until about or Last edited: Mar 1, Jan 23, 3. In and the date was embedded in the contract number, so the dates for these tags are definitive. Also the tag is definitive, as I know who owned the coat and the year he joined the Navy.
So, based on the known factors, we are able to give an educated guess for the dates of the other tags. The first tag shown below appears to be the same tag as the one issued inbut with the added instructions for cleaning the coat. I would place this tag at about because of the instructions panel.
Note that the instructions were used on the tag as well. That is one reason I say after The anchors are in both of the upper corners; they both just aren't visible in the photograph.
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I do know it is a post war tag because it came from a six button coat. I think it is approximately a tag for several reasons: The wording is almost identical to the tag, but the font is different. It has an "older" look to it. The anchors are fouled, which is first definitively noted in Also the anchors are not in the upper corners of the tag, which occurred in preceding and subsequent years.
In the years afterthe contract numbers are printed on the tag. Inand before, there was no contract number printed on the tag. The contract number is printed on this tag, and it has an "N" prefix, which, according to my research, was issued earlier than the "TAP" prefix on the tag.
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Post WWII, c. Note the "TAP" prefix. The tag below is a tag.
We can tell this because of the date in the contract number. During the 50s the date would occasionally appear in the contract information on the tag. Starting in this practice became permanent. Jan 23, 4. The coats during this period had a double row of stitching above the cuff, which also had a single row of stitching right at the cuff. This is a feature that goes back to sometime just after WWII and ended in Also was the last year for the double row of button holes that allowed the coat to be buttoned from the left or the right.
Although was officially the last year for the double row of stitching 3" above the cuff, this feature is found on some coats as well. Double Row of Stitching, Peacoat. The double row of stitching 3" above the cuff was eliminated. Beginning in the date was embedded in the contract number. This practice has carried forward to the current issue coats, so dating coats from forward is quite simple if there is a tag present.
If no tag is present, all of the clues must be utilized to determine the era.
Feb 28, THE FEDORA LOUNGE If you found this topic by a search engine, you need to know there is a lot more information available to you at the main part of the Fedora Lounge. You are currently in the "Outerwear" section. There is another thread about vintage peacoat dating in this section started by Matt Jones, which contains additional information. Also the Fedora Lounge has many more .
One day I will write out a logical path flow chart and post it here. Right now the chart is in my head.
Tags may be located on the outside of the right interior breast pocket, or they may be inside one of the pockets, including the hand warmer pockets of the coat. The color of the corduroy has not always been consistent. In most coats it is light brown or tan, but a few coats have been seen with dark green or black corduroy. The three colors are seen below.
A soft white, off white, or blue cotton lining was substituted. I have coats with all three of those colors in the handwarmer pockets. Jan 23, 5.
The Navy changed to a pewter button that was identical in styling to the gold button authorized for officers and chiefs. The coat itself remained unchanged.
How to Tell the Age of a Vintage Navy Pea Coat
The pewter button lasted untilwhen the classic black button with the fouled anchor was returned to service. The heavy smooth wool, deep midnight blue in color, often referred to as Kersey wool, that had long been a staple in Navy peacoats, with a few exceptions, was replaced.
The new peacoat fabric was known as Melton wool.
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It was black in color with a more fuzzy and rougher texture, and lighter in weight. Because of the lighter weight, an insulated lining was added to give it additional warmth. The top part of the inside of the coat is covered with a shiny rayon type liner, evidently because it receives the heaviest wear.
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Most reports I have received say the new peacoat is as warm, but not as water repellent or as wind proof as the original Kersey wool. My own experience and tests confirm these reports.
The Melton wool had been used earlier in the construction of peacoats. In the s there was at least one contract that specified Melton rather than Kersey wool. The pre Melton coats I have seen have all been labeled as such.
We know the coat on the right is a pre coat because of the double stitching 3" above the cuff. It is one thing to manufacture a civilian peacoat and label it as such.
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But it is quite another to manufacture a civilian peacoat and pass it off as the genuine article. It may be that the manufacturer wasn't trying to pass it off as an issue coat, but it sure causes confusion for subsequent buyers.
Below are two tags from two different coats purporting to be military issue when they are not. It is the same type tag and is the only impostor type tag I have run across. They are a quality manufacturer and make a good quality military peacoat from the Melton wool. The current issue tag is a white square tag right under the hang loop on the inside of the coat at the collar. I have found the civilian versions are not closely fitted like the military versions, and tend to be somewhat blocky in shape.
Nov 24, 6. I have found the tag size is usually an accurate predictor of how the garment will fit. There are exceptions, however, and I have developed this section to ensure a good fit for a peacoat bought from an online vendor, such as. A properly fitted peacoat will be trim without being tight.
There will be enough room to wear a sweater underneath without binding. A sweater may be necessary to fill in the space between the body and the inside of the coat for really cold weather wear. It slows the flow of cold air and adds insulation. For example, my chest measures 42 inches. I wear a size 42 peacoat pit to pit of For a trimmer look I can also wear a size 40 peacoat pit to pit of With the fit being closer to the body, however, the size 40 is warmer than the size 42 worn without a sweater.
I have found that the earlier the peacoat, the tighter the fit. The coats after WWII have a little more room in the chest. In fact the WWII models have a trimmer fit overall-chest, sleeves and shoulders-than the post war coats. Navy began using them.
Examine the cut of the vintage Navy pea coat. Coats from the early 19th century were double-breasted and short. The British navy wore longer ones. Look at the buttons. Early coats had three to six wood or brass buttons with Navy insignia such as anchors on them and may be dated as preth century. British Navy coats had large brass buttons in the second part of the 19th century.
Determine what color the coat is.
Vintage Navy pea coats are navy blue. Navy pea coats have been black since Look for the telltale signs of modern fashion, such as lightweight fabric, bright colors, zippers or hoods. Such signs mean that your coat is not significantly old. Cat Rambo has been writing professionally sincewhen she received a Master of Arts in writing from Johns Hopkins.